Sustainability Theories in Fashion Business

1.0 Overview of the chapter

This literature review chapter of the dissertation presents analysis of concept of ethics in fashion (overall), defines sustainability and its categories with a great focus on the sustainable materials and human rights, and presents details of consumers’ attitudes towards sustainable children brands. Fundamentally, it discusses the concepts, findings, and discussion captured by existing studies on elements concerning sustainability in businesses and clothing industry while taking a great focus on fashion field. It captures theoretical ideologies such as Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), 3P models, Natural capitalism, and Four Capital Model designed to capture variables of business sustainability, micro and macro business environment, natural environment, ethical standards, and beneficial elements to society not just the consumer. Lastly, it outlines the gap in previous research as identified in the consumers’ attitudes towards children brands.

1.1 Consumers attitudes

Building from Solomon et al. (2014) and Lucassen & Jansen (2014) assessment of consumer, one can perceive consumer in term of an individual paying to consume or use a commodity or service produced by a business entity, organization, or a company. Broadly, consumers can be categorised as end users or targeted demographics of services, goods, or a product. According to business dictionaries, a consumer is an individual who buys products or services for personal use and can be influenced by marketing and advertisements. Fundamentally, the products and services produces by a seller must resonate with the demands and values of target demographics. As asserted by Pookulangara and Koesler (2011), in development or production of business commodities, business must take into consideration the market demographic such consumer characteristics that include age, gender, education levels, household income, culture, values, beliefs geographical location, marital status, and income.

Extensively, studies have demonstrated the influence held by consumers as determinant of organizations success, business sustainability, growth, and competitiveness (Carroll and Buchholtz 2014; Johnson, 2010). According to Morgan (2012), business success measured by achieving bottom line, profitability, market share, leads acquired, and income are collectively grounded on clients (consumers) attitude and perception towards the products and services offered. For instance, the satisfaction levels on commodities, retention levels, and loyalty. In writing, Xie et al. (2012) and Fornell et al. (2010) argued that business entities irrespective of size in terms of financial revenues or market size cannot afford to disregarded consumer importance to its respective growth and sustainability. From marketing perspective, degree to which consumers are satisfied with the quality of services and products indicate retention levels. Arguably, extent to which an organization is able to retain consumer highlights the levels of satisfaction be consumer and complaint handling. According to Ward (2016) and Oliver (2014), consumer retention and satisfaction are directly correlated to consistent and committed focus of putting consumer first from designing and production of products and decision making.

With heightened focus on concept of sustainability, business entities and governments have increasingly enhanced their respective focus on environmental and consumers satisfaction and retention. The findings of studies on environmental sustainability in various fields indicate influence of such beliefs and norms on environmental and attitudes Grimmer and Bingham (2013). Gadenne et al. (2011) and Watchravesringkan et al. (2010) demonstrated that both extrinsic and intrinsic environments are founded on attitudes and perception of buyers acting as driving factors. Research conducted by Kuchinka et al. (2018) indicated correlation between sustainability and attitude at organizational environmental factors including consumer loyalty, satisfaction, and sustainability. In order to influence consumers’ attitudes it is necessary to conduct appropriate research and examine consumers’ attitudes, expectations, values, beliefs, and perception towards both the company and its commodities. As pointed by Zarantonello and Schmitt (2010), consumer attitudes are a composite of a consumer’s beliefs, feelings, and behavioral intentions. In this light, one can argue on the significance of understanding and creating a positive attitude towards a brand it is necessary to fulfil all of the above aspects. The consumers should think that the brand shares their values and beliefs, they should have positive feelings towards the brand and behavioural intentions.

2.2. Ethical trends in fashion history and overall view

Ethical trends in fashion are not a new issue. However, according to E. Kohrer and M. Schaffrin terms like sustainable fashion, green fashion, ethical fashion, eco-fair fashion, or slow fashion are considered as unattractive by most of the designers and associated with something that is unfashionable or old-fashioned. A. Gwilt and T. Rissanen claim that awareness of environmentalism and ethical issues is growing. However, there is still room for improvement. According to the authors the sustainability aspects are not very clear and may be seem confusing for some people. It is not clearly stated how one can connect with sustainability. In apparel industry where attainment of consumer satisfaction and demands are vital factors, it demands quick response, inexpensive, and fashionable design due to limited time and demographics elements in the market. According to Bruce et al. (2004) and Choi & Cheng (2015), the industry demands effective time management going from designing to in-store within shortest time possible. Similarly, building from elements of fast fashion, clothing that upholds this characteristics benefits from cheap production, demand driven, and quick time-to-market factors (Caro, and Martínez-de-Albéniz, 2015; Macchion et al., 2015). Consequently, organizations benefits from circumventing time-consuming research developing and producing products on demands rather than basing on forecasted trends.

According to Ashby et al. (2017), sustainability in clothing industry such as recycling and regeneration is see evolution into integral and defining factor in fashion industry developing from circular economy. Jung and Jin (2014) asserted that this shift is due to realization that leadership driven by sustainability can serves as real differentiating factor. Based on Fernandes et al. (2017) description of sustainable fashion claiming that it clothing and shoes produced and marketed in a manner that is sustainable to within both socio-economic and environmental parameters. In practices, it implies working continuously to enhance all stages in production lifecycle spiralling from designing, materials used, manufacturing, distribution, and sale (consumer relation). From environmental view point, it focuses on reducing the undesirable environmental effect to minimal during production such as efficient and effective usage of resources whereas socially it is grounded on improving conditions of employees associated to products lifecycle ensuring it adhere to practice ethics as well as positive attitude to fashion and encouraging sustainable consumption patterns.

Perrini and Tencati (2006) defined Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) as the commitment taken voluntarily by business entities aimed at taking into account corporate practices within social, environmental, and economic paradigm that are broader than legal requirements and stakeholders perspectives. According to Epstein (2018), CSR assigns the role and responsibility of organizations while promoting them to conduct it work towards it mission and goals, growing respective markets. Ideally, the core variables of CSR initiatives includes comprehensive strategy design and stakeholders analysis collective driven by marketplace, societal, workplace, and environmental elements. According to Battaglia et al. (2017), it comprises innovation for corporate sustainability and for the stakeholder network in which this is inserted and a crucial strategic positioning for corporate management. Three main dimensions have been distinguished (3P Model): Profit, People, and Planet. Turker and Altuntas (2014) exemplified that these elements acts as pillars of economically, socially, and environmentally sustainable operation.

Therefore, ethical fashion’s mission is to protect relationship between a customer and environment/society. Claudia Reder gives choice of fabric as an example of activity that a brand can conduct in ethical way. Building from Pedersen et al. (2018) arguments, brands should chose natural organic fabrics that preferably come from biodegradable natural vegetable fibres or sustainable fibres of animal origin (for example recycled wool), are easy to recycle. In this perspective, one can argues that ethical fashion gives us a promise that these products will damage neither the environment nor people and ensures that the quality will be higher (Fletcher, 2013; Caniato et al., 2012). It seems right to bring Vivienne Westwood’s motto: „Buy less, choose well, make it last”.

As illustrated by Sudbury and Böltner (2011) and Joy et al. (2012) ethical fashion aims to address the problems it sees with the way the fashion industry currently operates, such as exploitative labour, environmental damage, the use of hazardous chemicals, waste, and animal cruelty. Majorly, numerous concerns are often raised about exploitative working conditions in the factories that make cheap clothes for the high street. Child workers, alongside exploited adults, can be subjected to violence and abuse such as forced overtime, as well as cramped and unhygienic surroundings, bad food, and very poor pay (Gupta, and Hodges, 2012; Ryding et al., 2014). The low cost of clothes on the high street means that less and less money goes to the people who actually make them.

2.3 Choice of the material as one of the most important aspects of sustainability

Cotton provides much of the world's fabric, but growing it uses 22.5% of the world's insecticides and 10% of the world's pesticides, chemicals which can be dangerous for the environment and harmful to the farmers who grow it (Ethical Fashion Forum). Current textile growing practices are considered unsustainable because of the damage they do to the immediate environment. For example, the Aral Sea in Central Asia has shrunk to just 15% of its former volume, largely due to the vast quantity of water required for cotton production and dying (Ethical Fashion Forum). Similarly, working towards reduction in changing the raw materials in the industry through seeking alternative other than endangering forestry as natural resource has intensified recently. For instance, Zara and H&M prominent players in the industry have collaborated with non-profit organizations such as Canopy agree not to use endangers and ancient for supply of dissolvable pulp for rayon and viscose fabrics (McCullough, 2014). Findings by World Bank indicated that conventional textile production is one most polluting agents globally responsible for more than 20% of industrial pollution.

Most textiles are treated with chemicals to soften and dye them, however these chemicals can be toxic to the environment and can be transferred to the skin of the people wearing them. Hazardous chemicals used commonly in the textile industry are: lead, nickel, chromium IV, aryl amines, phthalates, and formaldehyde. According to Khatri et al. (2015) and Reddy et al. (2014), curbing environmental pollution associated with textile production begins with seeking new ways of fabric production that require low amount of water, minimal harm on ecology, and do not require toxins. Esteve-Turrillas and de la Guardia (2017) argued that organic cotton that does use synthetic fertilizers or pesticides can significantly introduce sustainability in the industry.

According to Waste Online, the low costs and disposable nature of high street fashion means that much of it is destined for incinerators or landfill sites. The UK alone throws away 1 million tonnes of clothing every year. Many animals are farmed to supply fur for the fashion industry, and many people feel that their welfare is an important part of the Ethical Fashion debate. The designer Stella McCartney does not use either fur or leather in her designs. In an advert for the animal rights organisation PETA, she said: “we address... ethical or ecological... questions in every other part of our lives except fashion. Mind-sets are changing, though, which is encouraging”. There is one more important aspect of slow fashion. According to Grover et al. (2017), practicing ethical fashion contributes to preserving cultural heritage like traditional garment making skills. Fast fashion aims to accelerate consumption, maximising the profit for big brands (McNeill, and Moore, 2015; Caro, and Martínez-de-Albéniz, 2015).

2.4. Human rights and animal rights

Study conducted by Grover et al. (2017) outlined that contemporary customers are more aware of many aspects and curios for example about where the garments are produced, what are the production techniques. Growing power of internet and information makes people more aware and demanding. The designers that are convinced about organised convention and workshops aimed at advocating for the course, for example GreenShows at NYC Fashion Week, White Milano, and Eco Fashion Week in Vancouver. There is also number of magazines and websites featuring and promoting ethical fashion like: Eco Fashion World, Six Magazine, and recently the Vogue. Historically, animal skins and fur has been perceived as a symbol of luxury but in the past centuries the exploitation of the industry increased significantly. Nevertheless, campaigns such as ‘Exotic Skins’ and ‘Rather Go Naked’ featuring prominent persons are some of the measures taken to mitigate the problem.

2.5 Ethical aspects in children’s brands

Studies and magazines demonstrated increasing customers care about ‘fashion system’ that is attributable to quality over quantity, traditional craftsmanship, supporting local economies, ecological design systems, cultural diversity, fair labour, building supply chain relationships, satisfying human needs, enhancing communities, and diverse business models. Kering Group, one of the largest luxury groups with brands like Gucci, Bottega Veneta,Saint Laurent, Puma was the first one that put sustainability on the agenda and at the core of its business strategies. Marie- Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer at Kering Group, in her interview, points that nowadays in order to be successful a company has to adapt and understand a relationship between business and the natural world.

In 2015 Kering Group published their first Environmental Profit and Loss Account (EP&L), which distinguished six indicators: greenhouse gas emission, air pollution, water pollution, water consumption, waste disposal, and changes in ecosystem services associated with land use change. That gave a view and helped to understand in which areas they can make more efficient decisions. One of the conclusions of the report was that over 50% of the environmental footprint depends on raw materials for example where and how cotton is grown. Some brands, in order to support fair trade, joined organisations like Asian Floor Wage Alliance, Ethical Trading Initiative, and the Fair Wear Foundation. Similarly, some institutions help to educate designers about ecological and social aspects for example Forum for the Future, London College of Fashion, California College of the Arts while organising workshops and programs about the subject.

Research gaps

There are gaps in ethical children brands and this dissertation aims to fill them. The positive outcome of the sustainability in the clothing and fashion industry is that a lot of people (even those with low income) can afford those clothes. The negative aspect is the influence on ecology, human rights, and traditional craftsmanship. We can notice the diversity in consumers’ way of thinking. Some of them prefer fast fashion as it is affordable and gives a lot of choice but more and more consumers think of the production process and quality. Broadly, the industry is greatly reliant upon mass production that in turn significantly affects it approach towards sustainability. Studies have extensive highlighted components and approaches taken towards attaining sustainable production cycle including obtaining raw material and manufacturing, little can be shown as a results of the approach but rather evidence of short-termism, cultural approximation, and poor treatment of employees.

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